Yes, Andrew, I can enthusiastically recommend milk paint for many 
applications.  I'm reworking a large Zuckermann Flemish single and 
indulging in doing a complete Flemish decorating scheme - faux marbling, 
papers, etc.  The exterior is green porphyry marbling, for which I used 
milk paint.  The base color is a lighter green with a darker, almost 
black green for the marbling.  For the white veining I used acrylic 
paint, however.

I must say, for an unexperienced somewhat clumsy painter like myself, 
this milk paint is a godsend.  The powder is mixed with water to a 
creamy consistency, and various shades of color can be created by mixing 
the many different colors that are offered.  The paint is easily applied 
and spread - I found a cheap foam brush actually works better than a 
bristle brush.  After about a hour the paint is dry and ready to prepare 
for subsequent coats.  Between coats I gave a very light sanding with 
200 grit paper.  A chalky dust forms, easily wiped off with a cloth.  
Non-clogging to the sandpaper.

Takes about three coats, maybe more to completely cover uniformly, but 
the final result is a smooth, flat, flawless surface.  For the Flemish 
marbling, I gave the final base color a sanding with 400 grit, wiped all 
dust off, and let it dry for a few days to make sure it was completely 
cured, although I suspect it might have been OK to proceed sooner.  Then 
I applied a much darker green (same green milk paint powder as for the 
base, to which I added some black milk paint powder from the same 
supplier.)  Working quickly, I removed some of the darker paint as it 
dried to give the random marbling pattern. This top layer began to dry 
faster than I could manage and I feared I was in trouble.  But I still 
found that after drying I could use 400 sandpaper to feather out the 
margins of the darker regions, and even sand through to the base coat if 
I wanted to eliminate some of the darker spots.  The end result turned 
out much better than I had expected.  The white acrylic veining was not 
as forgiving as milk paint, and my lack of artistic skill was more 
apparent, I fear.  The veining is not as realistic as the green/black 
marbling, but the overall effect is pretty good.

I plan to varnish the case, although visually the finish is fine the way 
it is.  I did a final light sanding with 400 and the effect is almost as 
smooth as semi-gloss even with no varnish.  But a varnish is needed for 
protection.  Water spilled on the dried paint will re-dissolve, I have 
discovered.

I also used milk paint for the grey banding on the top and bottom edges 
of the case, and also for the black and white lines to give the faux 3-D 
effect to the bands.  I mixed white and black milk paint powders until I 
was satisfied with the shade of grey.  It was nice to have control of 
the shading.  For instance, I did not have to use pure black or white 
for the 3-D lines, but could darken or lighten the grey band color.  I 
didn't trust my brush handling skills, so I used masking tape to define 
the bands and lines.  The milk paint co-operated wonderfully.  No 
leaking and the tape came off cleanly.  I also used milk paint for the 
black border on the inside of the lid surrounding the papers.  Masking 
tape to the rescue here too.

Mix up any quantity, keep in the refrigerator between applications (a 
week or two), clean up with water, mix up custom shades, and 
inexpensive!  What's not to like?

The Old Fashioned Milk Paint Company  Groton, MA   www.milkpaint.com

Norm Purdy

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