Provided you apply enough elbo grease with 1600 grit wet or dry sand paper, no tung oil is required. Historically, tung oil was not used, nor was any other finish. Ebony is loath to accept any finish at all, as it is loaded with resins. If you do use tung, I advise applying a very thin layer, wait five minures and then remove as much of the tung oil as will come off.The same can be said of danish oil.
Under no circumstances should one apply any finish at all to bone or ivory (or plastic for that matter), unless you wish to ruin the bone or ivory. Just polish with very high number emory cloths, and your fingers will do the rest.Applying finish to the sides of the sharps is OK.Also, handy devices are finger nail polishing sticks available from beauty supply stores. Get the finest two or three grits. These work very well on sharp tops as well as naturals.
REMEMBER TO SOFTEN THE EDGES AND CORNERS. Playing the clavichord isn't a blood sport.
-d


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
-------- Original message --------From: Michael Dunn <[log in to unmask]> Date: 7/14/18  12:42 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: [log in to unmask] Subject: Finishing a keyboard (tung?) 
Yay, my ZHI Hubert clavichord kit arrived a week ago (Hi Ed!), and I’ve been busy collecting materials, studying the manual, etc.

The manual specifies tung oil to finish the keyboard (ebony/bone), and I am curious of others’ opinions on keyboard finishing in general. And assuming I use tung, pure or polymerized?

thanks
Michael

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Note:  opinions  expressed on HPSCHD-L are those of the  individual con-

tributors and not necessarily  those of the list owners  nor of the Uni-

versity of Iowa.  For a brief  summary of list  commands, send mail to

[log in to unmask]  saying  HELP .

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