I'm used to treating ivory and bone in individual keyplates, so its a new
experience to think of an ivory veneer. I gather that it isnt badly
hygroscopic like real ivory but still does glue with hide glue. I think I
should cut some long 'cross grained' 3mm thick strips for the fronts, set
them in a rebate on the key panel a la Hubert and make seperate tails
accurately cut to the correct widths. These will be sanded in the
thicknessing sander setup in the drill press to 1.5mm before gluing. Or at
least that's my plan, I dont really know how this material will behave. I
making another 6 octave Streicher keyboard btw.


On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 6:34 PM, Michael Johnson <[log in to unmask]
> wrote:

> Michael Johnson wrote:
>
>> When you clean off the surface and prepare it for polishing, again done on
>> the board before separating the keys, the ink will show as a fine line for
>> cutting to.   Just one helpful tip, there are many but experience will teach
>> you those.
>>
>>  A further thought, I do the same thing on ebony.   I produce the blocks
> that I will turn into the veneers but before doing that I paint the treble
> side with yellow emulsion paint.   I think end with all the veneers having a
> yellow painted side and that shows up as a fine line for separating the keys
> from the board.
>
>
> M
>
> --
> www.michaeljohnsonharpsichords.co.uk
>
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Note:  opinions  expressed on HPSCHD-L are those of the  individual con-
tributors and not necessarily  those of the list owners  nor of the Uni-
versity of Iowa.  For a brief  summary of list  commands, send mail to
[log in to unmask]  saying  HELP .
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