>Even if the wink implies that you are jesting, Paul, and I'm not sure that
I
>interpret it that way, why go through the convoluted reasoning to arrive
at
>nothing? :~ )

OK, I give up. . . after years of trying to resist the use of smiley faces
I finally give in and people still don't get it!

>TAKES A LONG TIME TO DESIGN ALL
THOSE JOINTS SPECIFICALLY FOR HIDE GLUE. ;-)

Yes, that was totally 100% USDA grade AA jesting.

Seriously, I ask anyone out there to tell me what the difference might be
between a glue joint "designed" for hide glue as opposed to one "designed"
for Titebond.

I will admit that hide takes a little getting used to and is not as "idiot
proof" as Titebond. And sources of good hide glue are not easy to find,
whereas Titebond you can always get at the corner hardware. Therefore, it's
a good compromise solution for kit builders.

>To all Hubbard kit builders who may be tuned in. You've got good
professional glue joints. . .

I WILL quibble a bit with this statement though. Maybe they were good
"professional" joints when they left the Hubbard shop, but as every
"professional" knows, that doesn't mean they are still good on the day the
kit builder glues them together. Years ago Fine Woodworking ran an article
(or several was it?) on "glues and gluing", written by glue chemists and
woodworkers. Glue surfaces should be clean, flat, freshly-surfaced, and
require no excessive clamping pressure to force them into the right shape
or position. Oxidized surfaces (left in the open air for weeks or months)
can create weak joints. Of course any sort of oil (even hand oil if you've
got sweaty/oily palms, like me) can be death to glue joints. And as I hope
every woodworker has noticed, wood doesn't stay flat or straight forever; a
stick with a square section, for example, will be square only at the same
humidity at which it was made, and trapezoidal with any other sort of
weather (which, by the way, is the reason the MINe109 Walter backcheck rail
is drawn with the slope in the wrong direction). That's why parts which I
have made in production runs and have been on the shelf more than a few
days always get a pass or two with a sharp scraper and the
squareness/flatness is always double-checked just before gluing.

Paul