My 2 cents - (or more for ET)---- When tuning a piano one must tune very
slightly higher and then gently edge the pin back to proper pitch as Robert
mentions. The pro's call this "setting" the pin. This is due to the flex in
the pin and the generally high tension of the string. It is more intuitive
and easier than you think-- you will usually automatically realize this
after a few strings.

> One "gottcha" regarding damage is that if you are not experienced you may
spend more time cranking back and forth on the pins than you should This
wears the holes in the pinblock faster. If you have a temperamental pin
that just jumps back and forth past the pitch, get the best compromise and
leave it, maybe trying again later.

> anotther "gottcha" is if the wire is rusty-especially if the piano has
not been tuned in a long while-you may break a string. Pros do it too.
Replacement is not rocket science but you need a couple of low cost tools
to help out. Obviously don't go too high beyond pitch as you risk breakage.

> Also worth mentioning--be very careful to trace each sting to its pin
with your eye when tuning the treble triples--easier to get on the wrong
pin than one might think  until you do a lot of this and you could keep
cranking and break a string.

Regarding the actual tuning--others have mentioned the need for stretch.
This takes years of experience to do it right on a really good piano and
then it is very subjective. If you are just seeking to tweak up the home
upright you can do a pretty reasonable job with tunelab. (
https://www.tunelab-world.com/). They still have a free download version
that works just fine (it has a minor time delay annoyance built in for the
free version but you will be taking a lot of rests anyways if you are new
to this). This has the stretch built in (using sample notes that you will
give it). Pretty nice program-easy to use.

Hope my naive advice helps a bit here
Fritz, Falmouth MA

On Sun, Sep 25, 2016 at 7:45 PM, Robert Watson <[log in to unmask]>
wrote:

> I was told be a very experienced piano tuner that had worked with another
> very experienced tuner (long dead he told meto pull the tuning hammer over
> and above the pitch and let it fall to pitch. I read it in a book anyway.
> I did a similar thing with my harpsichord. Just a little above, and then
> down.  Worked out fine. Haha. no need to do that with an organ. Reed or
> flue. Makes a lot of sense with a wire: they are elastic.
> -r
>
> On 25 September 2016 at 18:26, Shields, Michael <
> [log in to unmask]> wrote:
>
> > The biggest issue for a self-training tuner switching from harpsichord to
> > tuning an old upright piano is less the inharmonicity than the high
> string
> > tension- you have to hold the tuning lever quite differently and
> compensate
> > more for the potential of the tuning pin to bend under pressure as it is
> > being turned. This makes it harder to get the strings to stay where you
> > want them, until you have had enough practice. Frustrating at the start.
> > And rusty strings can fail to spread their tension evenly over bridge
> etc.,
> > too. Longer-armed tuning hammers are nicer than short as they give more
> > control and require less force. But short & good quality is better than a
> > cheap long-armed hammer with a rubbish tip. As well as books there are
> some
> > utube demos of how to hold a hammer when piano-tuning that can give a
> > convenient first impression.
> >
> > ________________________________
> > <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
> >
> >
> >
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>
>
> --
> Robert Watson
> Ontario, Canada
>
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Note:  opinions  expressed on HPSCHD-L are those of the  individual con-
tributors and not necessarily  those of the list owners  nor of the Uni-
versity of Iowa.  For a brief  summary of list  commands, send mail to
[log in to unmask]  saying  HELP .
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